Last night 3 lovely Italians hosted the alberque sponsored by the Confraternity of Italy: the Hospital de San Nicolas in Intero del Castillo. This small place was a 13th century chapel converted by the Confraternity - again with no electricity, but thanks to a solar panel there was some hot water. We heard the bell ring three times and thought it was for dinner. One of the hosts came out with a short peregrino cape draped over her shoulders. She beckoned us to come in.
As we entered we found the 3 hosts in the small chapel on one end and we gathered there each taking our seat. They then came to each of us, asked out first name, then as one poured water over our foot and the other dried it the third pronounced a pilgrim blessing for us. It was a profound experience of community in this tiny chapel space. Ten minutes later we sat down to a simple dinner of spaghetti (with a wonderful spice), the tomatoes, cucmbers and tuna along with spices in olive oil. Dessert was a real treat of mixed fresh fruits.
Today I set out after breakfast, dawn was breaking but I did not have to leave so early... I knew I would walk only a short way (just over 6 miles). But there was a chill in the air as clouds covered the morning sun along with a strong headwind. It seemed fitting for this 10th anniversary of 9/11. It was a slow walk, good for remembering that day. My 9/11 is permanently entwined with my flight to Houston that day. We went down in Nashville around 9:30 and I traveled by car with a wonderful woman who was lawyer from Houston. We arrived in Houston about 1:00AM on the 12th... my mom flinging open the door to give me a big hug and my dad waking up to smile at me and say,"Cathy, you made it."
During the week I had many conversations with my dad, the last I would have. The next time I saw him in January he was semi-conscious and could do little more than say my name. He died on April 11, the 7 month anniversary of 9/11. So this morning as I walked I remembered my dad with great love and affection. He and my mom were a good fit - there first date was in Casper WY and it started with him giving my mom $100 and telling her not to give it back to him until the end of the night. Then he took her to the bars he frequented and did a little gambling. Mom faithfully held on to the money and did not give it back to him at the end of the evening. When he called the next day she assured him that she had the money and they saw each other again. I remember mom saying that her mother was a little skeptical when she said she was going to marry Jim Willis, but mom saw the good in him. In their marriage dad knew how to make my mom laugh and mom knew how to manage their finances so that their needs were met.
During one of our convesations that week in Houston my dad noted that he regretted not spending more time with my brother and I as kids. He worked for Phillips Petroleum and often got home late or had to leave in the middle of the night to take care of problems. But I remembered him as as the father who spent much of one summer building a stand alone "tree house" for my brother and I (since we had no large trees in our yard) where we loved to play and sometimes sleep. I remember her making a kite for us during our school lunch break and flying it with us. I remember our two week vacations taken faithfully every year where he loved to point out to us historical sites, show us new places, and always, we visited relatives and got to spend time with our cousins spread all over. I assured him I did not feel neglected. In fact I had thought of him last week when my Camino path was suddenly blocked by a herd of sheep. My dad took me with him for one work day where we traveled to wells throughout Kansas. At one point our road was blocked by pigs. I remember my dad laughing as we waited for all these pigs to pass. At the end of the day we stopped at a drive-in and I got a root beer float while my dad radioed mom to let her know we were almost home.
So today I remember my dad, and I remember the many lives lost on 9/11. I remember the destruction that can be caused by being so rigid with our beliefs we cannot tolerate others. But I will continue looking for the goodness in all. I will continue walking with people whose language I do not speak yet we can still walk with one another. I continue onward with great hope. With 9/11 terrorists sought to instill fear, but the Camino instills only a sense of community and great safety. Blessings be with you this day in your own remembering, and may hope be your companion this week. Bueno Camino!
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