Friday, September 30, 2011

Judgement Day

     A few days ago I went through Sarria.  Many people begin the Camino there as you must walk at least 100km to qualify for a Compostela and it is about 118-120km from Santiago.  The guidebook warns that it might be tempting to pass judgement on these new walkers.  Oh, he was so right.
    So as I sat in a town today eating lunch I noticed all the walkers going by with just day packs.  That means they are either on a tour and the bus will drop off there packs at the next lodging for the evening, or they have paid a service to send their packs ahead.  I look out and think, "Yeah you´re walking easily along... try it with a pa...  oh right, no judgement." 
    I´m walking along enjoying the quiet of the path when I hear lots of voices.  Another group with day packs, all excited, walking along and passing me, "Please, this isn´t another tourist attractions - I´m on a pilgrim... oh,  no judgement."
    I´m seeing new walkers with packs -- "They probably just started in Sarria, maybe back in Leon... either way... again I remember, no judgement"   It is very easy to judge others and note how they have taken the easy way - but I really don´t know that, do I?
   So I finally talk with one of the new faces - a young lady all in black including a jacket (how hard a walk could she be having if she still has on her jac... - no judgement).  I ask her where she´s from.  She answers Bogata Columbia.  Well, this isn´t just a day trip.  We talk a little more.  She does massage therapy, acupuncture and other alternative healing methods.  She was going to be in Santiago (she spoke english well, but I didn´t understand exactly why she was going there), so she decided she would take an extra week of vacation and walk from Sarria.  Her name is Carmen.  It´s really hard to pass judgement on someone when you talk with them a short while.  I liked Carmen.  I understood why she was taking this opportunity to experience what she could of the Camino.  Perhaps she will come back another time and walk more.
    Closely related to judgement is pride.  Someone passed me and asked where I started from.  I said Roncesvalles and the response was Ahhh! You could see my status rising in his eyes.  But claiming the pride of how far I walked seemed to be a judgement on his short walk.  As I finish this walk into Santiago I hope I can take personal satisfaction in knowing I have done well on my Camino, but not boast.  And may I look at each Peregrino as someone who is walking the Camino for their own reasons.  And who am I to judge?
Bueno Camino!

Thursday, September 29, 2011

More Walking in Darkness

   When I left this morning the stars were shinging once again - what a difference!  Instead of feeling claustrophobia from the blackness it felt as if the stars were the doorways to the universe.  So as I walked this morning I thought about my other senses, how I use them while walking in the dark.
  There are smells.  So many lovely smells from the plants and trees growing on the side of the path.  Garden smells, herb smells...  But because there is so much farming in the area there is also the lovely smell of manure - a sign that I am approaching one of the small dairy farms along the way, the stable in the middle of a village, or the corn field that has apparently now been fertilized in preparation for next year´s planting.
    This morning I noticed how the temperature of the air continued to change from time to time, the way many lakes in New England have cold spots and warm spots. When I first left the air was chilly, but I took one turn and it was as though heat had been stored in this place throughout the night and it was now emitted from the brush along the road. A little farther and it was colder once again.
    And I hear the breeze.  One sound if there are trees nearby - the rustle tells me about the trees.  Or if it picks up more like a wind there´s the soft roar in my ears.  Every so often I will also hear water and know that there is a little mountain stream or possibly a fountain nearby. Sometimes I also hear other pilgrims.  This is a nice sound as it confirms for me that I haven´t missed a turn - others are on the path also.  In fact, the other morning I walked by two pilgrims having breakfast outside of a bar.  Just beyond them I heard a whistle.  I went back and they told me that the bartender had pointed them in the other direction to catch the Camino.  I went back to the turn and with more searching with my flashlight I found the yellow arrow.  I was thankful for there help.
   Other sounds include roosters crowing, cows mooing, dogs barking (many dogs barking), sometimes a lone cat´s meow.   A couple of times I´ve heard owls.  Bianca who I met a few nights ago said she heard the howling of a wolf one morning - I haven´t heard that yet, and that´s okay!
   I will miss the sounds, smells, sensations of walking in the dark on the Camino.  The time leading up to sunset approaches a certain reverence and the sunrise itself is the beginning of worship.  May the sun rise on a good day for you.  Bueno Camino!

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Walking in Darkness

   I left the alberque about 6:45 this morning.  It was the darkest morning yet.  I was very thankful that I had purchased a new flashlight yesterday in Sarria to replace the one I dropped and broke.  The darkness is interesting.  I used my flashlight at first to see where I was walking and to follow the yellow arrows.  Then on the Meseta with its endless horizon I found all the stars, the Milky Way and the full moon.  The brightness of the full moon combined with the white stone of the path made it possible to follow my way with no flashlight (except when paths intersected and I needed to find arrows.
   But the moon has been waning over the past 10 days or so.  A couple of days ago it was just a sliver in the morning sky.  No more moon to guide.  And this morning there was cloud cover - no stars, simply pitch black as I stepped out of the light surrounding the alberque.  My flashlight on, I noticed a few things.  First, I could see nothing beyond the two feet in front of the circle made by my light.  I really had no idea what was ahead... and I didn´t really like that.
   Secondly, I couldn´t tell if the path was inclining up or down by my eyesight.  I could tell be the sensation of walking on it.  Now this was okay, I couldn´t glance ahead and see if it was going to be straight up for a long time, short time, or however it might change.
   Thirdly, I was very glad to have my little flashlight.  When I turned it off so I could check and see if there might be a star somewhere in the sky, I could see nothing... nothing!  I was so glad to have that light.
   But the night doesn´t last forever.  The first light finally came.  That´s the light that allowed me to make out the dark form of trees against the sky.  But the path itself was still dark.  Then the earth rolled a little more towards the sun and I found that I could see the path when it wasn´t covered by limbs of trees.  When it was, it disappeared once more.  The earth rolled a little more and at last...  I could make out the path even when under the trees and more importantly, I could see the dark mounds of manure (lots of cows in this area) enough to avoid them.  That´s when I turned my flashlight off.
    No wonder there are so many references to the "light of God" in scripture.  The darkness isn´t bad, its just...dark.  Nothing can be distinguished from something else and even after letting eyes adjust, things are still just different shades of dark.  But with light, even the soft light of the moon, forms start to appear and with the light of the sun we can distinguish objects from one another and see colors.  The light helps us to live together. 
    Yes, the sun came up this morning on a cloudy day on the Camino.  It´s been raining lightly all morning so I´m going to try to push forward a little more and take advantage of the coolness.  May the light of God shine throughout your day, rain or shine!  Bueno Camino!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Two Mountains

   This past weekend I had the opportunity to climb two mountains... and had two very different experiences.  I thought the first mountain on Saturday would be the easier one and would prepare me for the larger O´Cebreiro on Sunday.  I couldn´t have been more wrong.  Yes, the first one was not as high, but the climb was a huge challenge for me.
   I´ve been thinking about these two mountains.  How could two experiences be so different?  One difference certainly had to do with expectations.  The first was the middle of three options:  we could walk along the highway (and would still have to climb), we could take option 2, climbing one mountain and enjoying the beautiful views, or we could take option 3, climbing... I think, 2 mountains before heading to O´Cebrieiro (I did not even consider this one).  But because the mountain did not look to bad, and because the guidebook said it would be challenging, but come on, you´ve walked this far - you can do it, and because I wanted to see the views.
    So I made it to Triacastle and stopped for breakfast, then headed up the mountain around 10AM.   I should have had an inkling of what was to come when I turned onton the street leading to the mountain - it went straight up!  And up.  Then turned to a gravel path, and continued to go up.  Yes the views were wonderful, whenever I finally found a level place I could stand.  But the path just seemed to go up and up.  Every so often there would be a short level area and I´d think, yes!  now I can enjoy this.  But it would be shortlived as we would turn a corner and go up yet again.

I didn't need the arrow to tell me I needed to keep going up!

Yes, there is always a great view sooner or later!
    But be careful what you wish for.  At every turn I hoped we would start down, and finally we did.  And the descent was cruel.  It went down in the same way we went up.  I think I mentioned this is my last blog, but it really felt like we were going to descend right into hell.  By the time I reached the little town at the bottom I was done in.  And by the time I reached the Alberque a couple more towns over I was having doubts about even climbing O´Cebreiro.  Thank goodness for the angel of a hostess named Joanna.  She is from Holland and has been to Brazil a number of times so she is volunteering at "Do Brazil" an alberque sponsored by the confraternity of Santiago of Brazil.  I mentioned to her my long day and my concern about O´Cebreiro.  She told me she had hiked the mountain I just came down from and it is much harder the O´Cebreiro.  Oh?  Please tell me more.
    She drew me a picture.  She showed that I would walk about 4 or 5 km on level ground (that was good as it is always dark when I start).  Then I would have a very serious upward climb to La Faba, the first town.  But that was only one-third of the way.  Then I would have to continue to climb, but it would not be so intense, with some level places, really steep short places, then long, slow climbs on to the second village.  Then the climb would continue, but at the slow steady incline.  I hoped she was right.
   And she was!  The walk on Sunday was grueling on that first incline, but over all it was delightful.  I reached O´Cebreiro about noon and realized I still had energy to walk on.  The landscape, though was also changing.  While climbing I left the region of Castilla Y Leon and entered Galacia.  I was constantly hearing water as small mountain streams gushed by or water dripped right out of the mountain to the side of me.  I would come up to amazing vistas looking out over fields of many shades of green.  The air started to feel cooler and as we reached the peak there was a very cool breeze blowing.  But it was sunny and gorgeous and invigorating.
    We all have our ups and downs, but all mountains are not the same.   I continue to walk up and down as I move through the mountains of Galicia.  More about this region and its Celtic influence.  I´d add pictures, but there´s no adaptor here.  Hey - I´m glad I finally found internet!
   May your mountains be manageable and bring about wonderful things!  Bueno Camino!

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Harvests and High Places

    Yesterday I was thinking about harvests.  It was a lovely walking day - about 16 miles, mostly flat.  That was great as there was a long tedious, rocky descent the day before.  All during the day I saw signs of harvest.  The grapes that I have been seeing in the vineyard all along are now being picked.  Tractor after tractor pulling trailers full of grapes went by yesterday.  I walked by a couple of bodegas where they are taking the grapes to start the process of making wine.

  As I walked I saw a man with a wheelbarrow picking apples, then a woman picking beans.  There were gardens with ripe peppers, tomatoes and many fields of melons.  It is that time of year and it made me think of Trinity UMC and our theme for this year, the scripture verse: "I am the vine and you are the branches."  We started with Vacation Bible Camp focusing on the fruits of the spirit and next year´s mission trip through the Society of St Andrew will have the harvest as it´s theme.  As I walked I was thinking about what I will harvest from my time on the Camino.  It is getting to that point - right now it looks like I will reach Santiago de Compostela next Sunday or Monday.   Time to reflect on what this journey has meant for me.  I´ll share some of my reflections later this week.
    One thing I´ve noticed is that we go back and forth from good days of walking to difficult days.  I mentioned the steep descent into Molinesca that was so difficult.  There was also a day when I was walking the Via Romana over large rocks, in full sun, no shade on the path.  The flies and gnats were so bad that for a mile or so I tucked my white handkerchief into my hat and had it fall over my face.  I was able to make out the road pretty well, but pulled it up every so often just to make sure I hadn´t wandered.
   Yesterday was a lovely, easy walk.  Today I went up a mountain.  I thought it was a small mountain, but this thing just kept going and going.  And going and going... and going.  I have to admit, the vistas were beautiful.  I even enjoyed some of the walking across the more level areas at the top.  But then the descent started.  It wasn´t as rocky as going into Molinesca, but it was much steeper at times - and it went on and on.  I was heading into the town of Trabadelo, but as I went down, down, down, I still couldn´t see the town.  There were very few of us on this option (many apparently took the route that followed the road).  I saw 4 other people.  I was by myself for the entire descent.  And I finally decided that I must be descending right into hell.  This was confirmed as I continued downward and the banks of ground on one side soared up into the air about a story and a half.  It really felt like I was about to go completely underground when I finally turned a corner and there was the fountain in Trabadelo.  I finally found a shady bench in town, collapsed and ate my cheese and apple, changed my socks, and headed out of town. 
    The reward at this point was a lovely (fairly flat) walk back and forth over the Rio Valcarce.  It was lovely, shady, and truly renewed my soul.  Today was a good preparation for O´Cebreiro tomorrow.  The guide book says allow 3 hours for the climb, but the hostess at the alberque assures me that while 1/3 is pretty steep the rest is more gentle -- and the descent is much better than todays!  I sure hope she is right.
   As I reach the peak of O´Cebriero I will enter into Galicia, the last of the regions covered by the Camino.  Tomorrow...  a new mountain, a new region, a new day.  Bueno Camino!

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Walking with a Frenchman

    Yesterday after I posted I walked out into the courtyard of the alberque and who do I see but Danielle!  She´s a Frenchwoman who speaks very little English, but is delightful.  I met her at an alberque the third night of the Camino and have not seen her since.  We had a wonderful reunion.  She also let me know that she had Polly´s information so I love that she was able to help me to connect to Polly - even if we do not see one another again on the Camino.
    So today I headed out about 7AM.  Orion in the sky, Venus, I turn around every so often and watch another amazing sunrise.  The walking was easy in the coolness (luckily not as cold as the two nights before).  Stopped at the first town, then headed to the next.  I had now completed about 5 miles when a young Frenchman asked me if I knew the time.  I told him I didn´t and he noted that he had just posted a letter and it said 9:30 pickup so he wondered if it would go today.  Then he shrugged and said that it didn´t matter anyway - he´s on the Camino.
    We walked together the next 5 miles to Rabbinal and he talked the entire time.  He was very cute.  He told me he had started the Camino in Lourdes France and walked the Camino Avillia(sp?) which wasn´t very crowded, then it joined the Camino Frances.  He´s been walking for 4 weeks.  I asked him why he was walking the Camino and he told me, "Well, that is a very long story... I will try to tell you."  And the story began.
    Reason number 1.  For Adventure.  He loves the idea of adventure and so he has decided to just go whereever whenever.  He said "Sometimes it says the Camino is there... so I go there instead... a little adventure."  He said that if he doesn´t eat for 24 hours he´ll survive.  There will be a village with a market at some point.  If he has to sleep outside, that´s okay.  He likes sleeping under the stars.  He also said he enjoys seeing new places.  Plus he noted that he only knew a little Spanish, could not put together sentences, but he asks people words and is now speaking Spanish quite well.  Everyone who walked by who was Spanish seemed to converse easily with him.  He noted that many French do not bother to speak spanish, but since he is in their country he thinks it is nicer to speak their language, or at least try.
   He also noted that he has his cell phone, but put a message on it to not leave a message unless it is an emergency.  He checks every 4 days or so in case something has happened with his family.  He told them, to not expect him to call.  He did not bring a camera, instead if he sees something of real interest he is taking the time to draw it.  He said something like drawing is not efficient, but I´m on the Camino and it is not about an efficient journey.  He intends to take the time he needs to record his journey by drawing.
   Reason Number 2.  To step back and take time.  He had heard about the Camino before.  Then his grandparent died a few years ago and one of his uncles suggested the family walk the Camino de Puy (in France) one week each summer.  He went last year and really liked having that time set aside.  He added that he was a "Chief" at Boy Scout camp this past year and the training was at a monastery where they had time for training, but also for prayer and personal time.  He really liked that.  And he was at a place where he had time to do this "stepping" back.
   He talked about liking one aspect of the job he has had in Paris the last couple of years.  So he left his job and when he returns he wants to return to the aspect he liked.  He spent some time in the Monastery thinking about his work and got some clarity about what to do, so he thought, perhaps the Camino would also help bring some clarity.
    Reason number 3.  Hopes to reconnect to God.   He said he was raised in a Catholic family that is very involved with the church, but as he turned 21, 22 he started questioning and not taking it as seriously.  Now at 25 he feels very strongly that it is important to have God rather than for each of us to believe we are in total control of our lives.  I asked him about how he would describe God.  He thinks of God as a loving parent, someone who guides, but does not get upset if you go another way.  God is always there.
    In between the lines he explained and told stories that were great - like his mother has 9 brothers and sisters and each has 6-7 kids so he has over 50 cousins.  He made reference to a number of family meetings.  He talked about his grandfather who cared for acres of forests (he felt he should care for God´s creation), and now after his grandfather´s death how others in the family are stepping in to care for the land. 


Marc stops to help another French peregrino
One of many interesting cairns on the Camino
A Sheep dog earns a cool reward
A shepherd waits for the dogs to lead the sheep to him.
    So as we reached Rabbinal we parted as I stopped to eat my lunch.  We exchanged names. his in Marc.  I told him how much I enjoyed visiting with him and he said something like... "Yes, I know I really talked a lot."  But it was delightful, Marc.  May God be with you on your Camino.  Bueno Camino!

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

The temptations of half way - and I found the USB!

    Star log, Day 25.  I left the lovely alberque in Villares de Orbigo around 7:00AM.  I could still see the stars and just the very first hint of light.  Traveled on a lovely path over a hill to the next village.  I was going to show you pictures of this day, but this computer does not have a usb connection.  I´ll add them next time a computer does.  So here, imagine a picture of a thin red line of red sky showing through the church bell tower looking back at Villares.
   The walk was lovely, except people kept passing me.  It started bothering me.  I think that now I´m over the half way mark I´m more conscious of just how much time I have left.  In the evening I go through possible scenarios for day to day to see when I might get to Santiago.  In my sermon before I left I talked about my granddaughter continuously asking "How many more hours" as we traveled to Maine for clergy camp.  Now I´m asking, "How many more days to Santiago."  Time to get back into the journey.
   But it was hard.  Maybe I´m not walking fast enough and that´s why everyone passes me.  Maybe I´m not walking far enough each day (10 to 16 miles on average).  And now we´re going into the mountains, so it will take longer to walk each mile.  As I thought about this I found myself tempted with judging those who walked by me "He is walking way to fast...  he should slow down and enjoy the camino...  she´s rushing just like in real life".   And on and on.  Time to stop judging how others walk and pay attention to my own walking.
   About 9:00 I stopped and spread my poncho on the ground and enjoyed a breakfast of cheese and bread.  Traveled a little further and I saw a little place that my hostess last night told me about.  She said to watch for a guy about 8km away who would have coffee, juice, tea and a place to take a break - all for donations.  He also had a stamp (sello) for my pilgrim passport.  And there he was greeting everyone with a smile and an invitation to rest.  (picture next time)
    I moved on and arrived at the cruce above Astorga. (got a nice pic of that also with Astorga in the distance).  Nice to see where I´m going, but still another 45 - 60 minutes to walk.  Finally made it to Astorga and saw Steffie from Germany.  She was will us a couple of nights on the Meseta and is now taking two days in Astorga to let her leg rest as it has been painful.  I take heart in the fact that some much younger than I also have things to deal with.  She was disappointed (and maybe a little concerned that her leg might not get better).  We left with a hug and I gave words of encouragement.  I think she will catch up with me in a few days.
    On the other side of Astorga I visited the peregrino museum and the cathedral.  The museum is in a Gaudi building and it was nice outside, but spectacular inside with vaulted ceilings lined with tile, stained glass windows, and beautiful artwork.  The cathedral was also lovely, but after Leon... well...
   Time to continue on.  I got a bocadillo (sandwich), changed my socks, and was ready to walk.  But I had not gone far when my left foot started really bothering me.  I had expected a cool afternoon like the last couple of days (by the way, the morning has been freezing!), but it warmed up.  Not as hot as the meseta, but enough to mess with my feet.  I finally hobbled into Murias de Rechivaldo and got a bed at the lovely  alberque (pictures of it also - next time).  Now I´m recovered and I can see the Camino path right outside my door to the right.  I´ll start earlier in the morning, I´ll make it to Rabanal (in the mountains) and beyond I hope.  And I´ll look for a computer that has a USB so I can add some pictures next time.  Back to the journey, back to the Camino.   Bueno Camino!
Finally - the alberque!

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The courtyard of the alberque